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Potatoes
Potatoes can be a rewarding crop if you have room in
your garden. Each plant takes up four square feet of
garden space with vines growing about two feet high;
however, for each pound of seed potatoes planted, the
average yield is 10 pounds of potatoes. Planting dates
Potatoes can be planted from March to June.
In Yellowstone County, the first crop can often be
planted on Good Friday, or as soon as the soil can be
worked. If you plan to store potatoes through the
winter, plant a second crop as late as June 15. Choosing
the site Choose a location that is sunny, with light,
well-drained soil. Potatoes planted in poorly drained
soil often produce deformed, knobby tubers. |
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Preparing the "Seeds"
A potato "seed" is just a cut piece of potato,
usually about the size of a small egg and having at
least two "eyes" from which sprout will emerge. the cut
pieces can be left to dry overnight and planted the next
day or they can be left in a light place indoors until
they form 1/2 inch long green sprouts and then planted
outdoors. Several varieties do well in our area. You may
choose either early or late potatoes, depending on
whether you plan to store them. Color choices include
red, white, gold and even blue! |
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Planting
There are two ways of planting potatoes-either covered
by soil or mulched over with straw. Either way, you can
speed up the growth by covering the rows with clear
plastic to warm the soil in March and April.
1. Soil Method-Place seed potato pieces cut side down in
a 4 inch deep trench. Space the pieces 15 inches apart.
Rows should be 2 1/2 to 3 feet from each other. Cover
chunks with 2 inches of soil. As spouts emerge, add
another 2 inches of soil to the furrow. As potato vines
grow, continue mounding soil up over each row until
mounds are approximately 4 inches high and 18 inches
wide.
2. Straw Method-Place seed pieces cut side down directly
on top of the ground 15 inches apart in rows 2 1/2 to 3
feet from each other. along each side of the row, place
four inch-thick "flakes" of straw (from a bale)
side-by-side on top of the cut seed pieces. Allow the
vines to grow up through the center row of straw flakes.
The foliage should never be completely covered after it
has emerged from beneath the straw. |
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Fertilizer
At planting time, fertilize in bands along both sides of
the row with a fertilizer formulated for our soils, such
as Jirdon® Vegetable Fertilizer (12-16-14). Keep the
band of fertilizer at least 2 inches from the seed
potatoes. |
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Watering
Keep potato vines well watered through the summer,
especially during periods of drought. Try to water only
in the mornings in order to allow foliage to dry before
evening. Wet foliage can make a plant more susceptible
to several potato blight diseases. Discontinue watering
after foliage turns yellow. |
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Cultivation
Since new potatoes form between the cut piece and the
soil surface, it is necessary to avoid hoeing weeds too
close to the row. Instead, hand weed on top of the rows
and scrape soil from between the rows up around the
stems of the vines. Another method is to mound straw
around the base of each plant. Either way, the goal is
to cool the soil, maintain a more constant moisture
level, and protect the developing tubers from the sun,
which would turn them green and inedible. |
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Harvesting
Potatoes can be harvested during the season by gently
loosening the soil and removing the largest tubers,
leaving the smaller ones to continue growing. Usually,
early potatoes can be harvested when you see the plants
begin to flower. If you used the straw method of
planting, simply reach beneath the straw layer. If you
want late potatoes for storage, wait 2 weeks after the
foliage begins to die back. Remove the potatoes with a
spade, being careful not to bruise the skins. Allow the
potatoes to dry, unwashed, for two-three days. Store
unblemished potatoes only, in a well-ventilated, dark,
cool (about 40 degrees) location. If these conditions
are met, potatoes should keep well for three-six months. |
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Ranunculus
Radiant |
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Peony
Bashful |
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Iris
My compliments |
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